Winefriend by David Way

Writing about the wines of Piemonte, Italy and France

Arriving in Puglia

At the beginning of a trip, there is always the travel day – the early start, the wait at the airport, the anxiety of the unknown.  But then there is the arriving in which Puglia did us proud.  We touched down at 12.30 pm and by the time we had got through the simple passport check at Bari airport, the luggage was ready to be collected. We will skip the minor accident which caused delays on Bari’s ring road.  An hour later, we left the main road going south and took potluck and had lunch by the sea at San Vito.  We were richly rewarded with bright sunshine, a cool wind, searingly fresh seafood including ricci (sea urchins) and the wildflowers of spring.  No wine for lunch – it was difficult enough keeping awake to drive on in the afternoon.
 
An hour and a bit later, following a snooze in a layby, we arrived at Cellino San Marco, a convenient centre for a cluster of important wineries which serve the Salento peninsula, with a beautiful hotel, the Kelina.  We really enjoyed our stay here in the beautifully restored, traditional stone building, with very pleasant staff, a good restaurant and wi-fi. Here are some pictures of the interior.
 
The town itself is small and was brought to a complete halt by a funeral for which everyone turned out and the band played.  By early evening, it was just the older men who stood around and passed the time of day until suddenly the evening meal called and they vanished on their bicycles.  Somethings don’t change over the decades!
 
On this first evening, we ate very well at Bolognini, situated in an old and beautifully restored traditional working cellar.  Here the walls are kitted out with wine racks to a very high ceiling and with barrels in their holders.  The food was excellent – full marks to mushrooms stuffed with a finely chopped funghi porcini to die for – and we drank the owner’s own Negroamaro:  Don Gianni, Negroamaro Rosso Salento IGT, 2006, €16.  A deep ruby colour, an intense nose of red and some black fruit with the liquorice and cloves of old oak, more of the same on the palate but with very good refreshing acidity, salty, fair intensity, good length.  Welcome to Puglia!
 
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