Posts Tagged ‘Dolcetto’
This winery is appropriately enough near ‘three stars’ (Trestelle), itself a sort of mid point between the three Barbaresco communes – Treiso, Neive and, of course, Barbaresco itself. But the three stars could also refer to the three daughters of the family or indeed to the excellent quality of the wine in relation to price.
The winery covers all the bases – four Barbaresco, one other Nebbiolo wine, a Dolcetto, two Barbera and then, somewhat surprisingly, three white wines. Paola, who showed us around, gives the simple explanation that this is because of her father’s love of white wine, in an area basically given over to reds. We are in the last gasp of the Moscato d’Asti zone so one of them is of course Moscato. The other two are different takes on Chardonnay.
wines. ‘Moscato Trefie’ is a reference to the three daughters. Paola and Valentina work here and Federika makes patisserie – for which of course the delicious, slightly sparkling wine, sweetish but with a herby tinge, is a perfect accompaniment. The two Chardonnays are unoaked (Luna d’agosto 2009, with a bit of native Cortese in it) and oaked, Sermine 2009, extremely good value at €5 and €8.50 respectively.
For the Barbaresco a range of oak is used. The simpler Langhe Nebbiolo is matured in the traditional large oak barrels, Barbaresco Marcarini and Asili see a divide between large barrel and barrique treatment, while Barbaresco Pora is raised in tonneaux – a sort of half-way house in terms of size. Is there a profound wine making reason for this? No, it’s because there isn’t much of it.
In many ways, Ca’ del Baio is a near perfect winery to follow for the wine lover. It’s got that real family feel, they seem relaxed about their success; there are no airs and graces, just a great range of wines at good prices. The Langhe Nebbiolo 2008, Bric del Baio, spends 12 months in large barrels, has a lovely perfumed nose and good fruit. Elegant every day drinking at €8 – if you live in Italy of course. Equally good and good value are the prize winning Barbaresco:
- Valgrande 2006, which gets the traditional treatment of two years in the large botti. Still very young and slightly rustic but full of fruit.
- Asili 2006: from a hillside which gets the sun all day, 10% matured in barriques for a little added richness, great nose of fragrant red fruit, a little bit of spice, typical high tannins and acidity which will carry it into a glorious maturity (here’s hoping for the rest of us). Tre bicchieri in the Gambero Rosso 2010. All this for €20 at the winery.
- Pora 2005: quite restrained on the nose, does not have the opulence of the 2006s but still good.
Thank you to Paola and Valentina for a great visit. Sadly the wine is not available in the UK. Thanks also for the recommendation for the fabulous La Ciau del tornamento, super sophisticated restaurant in Treiso with food and a view da morire! And I learn from the web site, a 30, 000 bottle cellar … fortunately we only had time for one excellent course and left refreshed and with wallets intact.
Having finished the posts from Vinitaly, we return to our week in the Langhe, home of the famous wines of Barbaresco and Barolo. The message at Bruno Rocca’s family winery in Barbaresco is clear. However much they are completing an impressive new winery under the current house, the heart of the matter is the land. It is only now after three decades that the new winery has become a priority, until then it was buying the best possible sites. Daughter and marketing manager Luisa explains: her father of course has to sit in the office at times but always with a sense of impatience, he would always rather be in the vineyard. Or, as the brochure says, ‘The wine which grows here is the mirror and soul of its land’ – to translate the Italian version very literally.
Thirty years ago the previous generation were selling wines in demijohns and now the new winery nears completion. Such is the speed of change when you get the basics right. And Bruno Rocca has been happy to learn from from others including a period in Burgundy. Not only is the Cote d’Or not that far away (give or take the odd range of Alps) but the similarities are very obvious: many, small family wineries; a smallish wine zone with seemingly infinite if miniscule variations of terroir; passion for the local and the particular; red wines of subtlety and elegance. The recent conference in Alba which focused on Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo was on to something. If they had added Sangiovese, some of us would have been in wine heaven!
Bruno Rocca has a full range of wines – no less than four Barbaresco, a red blend, two Barbera, a Dolcetto and – perhaps with a nod to Burgundy again – a Chardonnay. We chose to go the red route. It is always interesting to taste the Dolcetto because it tells you about wine making standards. All the attention in the Langhe is on the wines made from Nebbiolo and after that Barbera. The Dolcetto, made for drinking young, is a lovely purply red, with quite a dark cherry nose, quite complex, very drinkable indeed. It carries its vineyard name, Trifolé, truffle in the local dialect.
The second red, Langhe DOC Rabajolo, is a blend and contains – shock, horror – Cabernet Sauvignon! 50% of the Bordelaise foreigner, plus 25% each of Nebbiolo
and Barbera. Bruno Rocca himself appears just in time to explain that he thinks the Cabernet ripens well here and loses its greenness. Certainly, after the deep ruby red colour, the aroma is of ripe fruit, not typically mint and blackcurrant. The wine has spent 16 months in barriques in their first and second years of use. The Barbera makes a big contribution to this wine, which does have that characteristic Italian edge of bitterness.
The final wine has to be Barbaresco of course, in this case the cru Rabajà 2007 – this seems right given we have been driving up and down the Rabajà road to reach the various wineries. The 2007 had just been released and like all Nebbiolo is pale ruby red with a characteristic orange tinge, even in relative youth. It has spend 18 months in barriques and a further 12 at least in the bottle. The maturation in the future will be in the fine, traditional brick built cellar with its wonderful barrel roof. After some clove and spice notes, the fine red fruit is prominent, very rounded and already well integrated, but also some hazel nut and butteriness. Very refined, complex, a fitting climax to the visit.
But we must return to the land. Others can give a technical explanation of why it is so suited to fine red wine production. We can enjoy meeting the people, tasting the wines and being surrounded by a very beautiful landscape.
Many thanks to Bruno and Luisa Rocca. The wines are available in the UK via Liberty Wines.
This smallish family firm produces six wines, all red, with a total production from six hectares of 40,000 bottles a year. As Danilo explained, there are just three of them in the firm, so the up side is that you get to do a bit of everything. He had worked previously as a sommelier in the Gordon Ramsey restaurant in Claridges. The down side of the family firm is that at some times of year, no one can have a day off.
There are three entry level wines (Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo of course) and three top wines, two Barbaresco cru and one blend, called Seifile, 80% old vine Barbera and 20% Nebbiolo.
The Dolcetto 2008 is all that you expect of a young wine, aged for a short period in stainless steel vats, and then released to charm the drinker with its fresh red fruit and lovely cherry nose.
By contrast, the two Barbaresco come from named vineyards and are aged in different ways. Barbaresco Manzola 2006 comes from a sandier area and is the more traditional of the two, being aged for two years in large oak botti. It has a very perfumed, refined nose of mint and red fruit. It’s still a young wine with some rough edges but has many years ahead of it.
For this visit I had made the classic mistake of not having recharged the camera batteries which died suddenly on me. So these pictures were taken on an Iphone – which seems particularly good at capturing the colours of red wine. Here we have youngish Barbaresco, with its pale ruby red and hint of orange at the edges.
The second cru is Barbaresco Rombone 2006, the vineyard which surrounds the winery and which is more limestone and clay than sand. Along with ageing for one year in large botti and a further year in barriques, this produces a more austere wine, though still highly accessible with good fruit. It has a more powerful nose than its compatriot and perhaps a yet longer life – if you can avoid drinking it, of course. It is one of the features of Barbaresco, in comparison to Barolo, that the wines are drinkable earlier.
It is always a particular pleasure to visit the smaller, family wineries and many thanks to Danilo. The wines are attractive priced at the winery and available in the UK from the Real Wine Company, Stoke Poges.