Tuscan harvest watch 2011 – part A: 23 August-22 September 2011
Carla of Sassotondo, Pitigliano, 22 September
On Monday we began to pick the Merlot in excellent weather, very comfortable temperatures and a good wind. The grapes are lovely, perfectly healthy, with some which have been exposed to too much sun needing to be selected out because they are scorched. But we are used to working with great precision during the harvesting phase.
The Ciliegiolo and the Sangiovese will not brought in to the winery before next week as the tannins are still ripening very well and it will be a great vintage. I hear that Italian journalists are saying crazy things about this vintage, but sadly that is not a novelty. It is certainly the case that you need to do good work in the vineyard and take nothing for granted, but that’s not a novelty either. Have a look at the photos and taste the wine!
Paolo of Caparsa, Radda in Chianti, 20 September
As of today the 20th September, the weather has changed completely since a few days ago: finally it has rained and the temperatures have dropped greatly. This is ideal to contemplate the harvest of the Sangiovese. It is difficult to imagine how much patience and watchfulness at times rewards those who take risks. For it was really impossible to think of harvesting the Sangiovese at temperatures above thirty degrees, when we would lose the finesse and those rare aromas which are typical of the wines of Radda in Chianti! Consequently, the harvest at Caparsa will begin in these conditions – which I repeat are ideal – towards the middle of the week.
Marco of Capitoni, Val d’Orcia, 14 September
The Sangiovese is maturing well. Temperatures more typical of the seasonal average combined with good day/night temperature difference should lead to a gradual and perfect maturation of the grapes which remain on the vines. In fact we have taken steps to harvest all the grapes which have shown signs of drying on the vine. Before the final harvest we will continue with the sampling and analysis, both with our senses and in the laboratory, with a view to picking at the optimum moment of maturation.
Francesca of Massa Vecchia, Massa Marittima, 12 September
We are just about at the end of the harvest – which in 25 years has never happened this early. Due to the heat of the second half of August and the first half of September, the maturity of the grapes underwent a rapid acceleration. Some late varieties suffered a small amount, the risk being that they would dry out before getting fully mature. The Merlot and the Sangiovese have been the varieties most affected by the heat but got back on track with the short if intense spell of rain in early September. We decided to leave the Aleatico, made by the passito method, ie by partial drying of the grapes before being made into wine, to dry on the plants themselves. The grapes were already a bit dried out by 25 August and we decided to go with the season.
In contrast the white varieties have shown a notable resistance and great balance in spite of the season, which therefore presages a great year.
- 25 August: the harvest begins with Malvasia Nera
- 30 August: Cabernet Sauvignon
- 2 September: harvest of the semi-dried Aleatico, dried on the vine
- 5 September: Merlot
- 7 September: Sangiovese and Alicante
- 10 September: Vermentino and Malvasia Bianca
We are now waiting to harvest the final vineyard of Sangiovese, which, because it is at a higher altitude and further inland, did not feel the effects of the heat and had a pattern of maturing more like other years.
Rita of Campo alla Sughera, Bolgheri, 9 September
The 2011 harvest will be memorable for the torrid heat of August. The high temperatures led to a notable acceleration of maturation of the grapes until 15 August which had been rather gradual, with the result that the period for picking some of the grapes came forward. From the quality point of view, the harvest is very satisfactory and the grapes are very healthy.
The Chardonnay and the Sauvignon Blanc destined for our Achenio, DOC Bolgheri bianco, were harvested on 24th August! The grapes were perfectly healthy with ideal acidity for the production of high quality white wine. The photos of our white grapes of 2011 speak for themselves! Between 29 August and 3 September we have taken steps to harvest all the Merlot and the Cabernet Franc with really healthy grapes, excellent acidity and a sugar level which is medium high. At the moment the prospect is for a good quality harvest. But we have to wait for the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Petit Verdot before we can really come to a final conclusion.
Carla of Sassotondo, Pitigliano, 7 September
The Sauvignon is fermenting, all the rest of the grapes are doing really well. The refreshing change in the weather, combined with the splendid state of health of the vines is leading us to expect a harvest which is returning to normality. The Merlot will come in around 10 days time and the rest of the grapes a week later – about three weeks from today for the Ciliegiolo which is exceptional. Look at the photos! (As you know such predictions in this period are always accompanied by good luck gestures, more or less vulgar.)
Off we go again! Having waited in vain for the arrival of rain which would have enabled the grapes to regain some water, we have decided to harvest the Sangiovese from the youngest vineyard which has the least resources to withstand the drought. The harvest takes place in small boxes with a selection of healthy and compact bunches in the vineyard so that only the best grapes arrive in the winery. We don’t use machines for harvest, just skilled workers who can guarantee a precise standard of work. The picking starts very early in the morning to keep the temperature of the grapes low so that the yeasts on the skins can work in optimal conditions. Once harvested, one takes a great deal of care to not crush the bunches in the boxes so as to avoid an uncontrolled fermentation starting. We try to get the grapes to the winery as soon as possible.
Once they have arrived in the winery, the boxes are gently emptied into the combined destemmer and crusher (see photo). Thanks to the steel claws the grapes are separated from the stalks, leaving the grapes unbroken. From here they are conveyed directly into the tanks. The process of wine making really begins with the destemmer which if it is carried out gently enough prevents damage to the stalks and the pips which would confer not particularly positive characteristics to the wine. It preserves the integrity of the skins and the original precious aromas and tastes for the fermentation phase.
The grapes of each vineyard are vinified separately in stainless steel tanks with a long maceration period, a prolonged contact of the skins and pips with the must at a controlled temperature of 26-28°C. Being an extremely hot season and having been at high temperatures we have made use of dry ice in order to keep temperatures down to avoid the fermentation from halting (see photo). With the long maceration we extract the maximum from the skins – the tannic substances and the pigments such as the anthocyanins which help with long ageing and stability in time. As soon as the temperature rises the alcoholic fermentation begins. With the Merlot must, which was picked a few days ago, we are pumping it over every day to optimise the extraction of tannins and colour (see photo) – obviously this oxygenates the must. The must flows out of a nozzle at the bottom of the tank and is reintroduced from above, bathing and breaking up the cap which forms on the top of the skins (photo). The maceration will last for 20-30 days and during this period délestage will be carried out to introduce the right level of oxygen into the must and in this way to improve the extraction of tannins and colour, achieving cleaner and more elegant perfume and aromas.
The harvest period is always a deeply moving time when one sees the results of a year of work and one feels the must finally breathing in the fermentation phase after all the care and attention which has been given to the fruit in the vineyard.
Paolo of Caparsa, Radda in Chianti, 5 September
Despite the heat of August the Sangiovese is responding very well. The maturation is proceeding in a regular fashion apart from a couple of particularly dry areas with very young wines. For Bordeaux grape varieties (which I don’t have) I think that some Merlot has already been harvested a week ago, but not I think with good results: they were picked too early and have high alcohol levels.
Marco of Capitoni, Pienza, Val d’Orcia, 2 September
We have picked our first grapes. We have kept the light out of the winery as a preventative measure. The grapes, placed in small boxes by the hands of the various pickers, arrive indoors within a few minutes after just a short journey with the tractor and trailer.
In the vineyard it continues to be very hot and it is easy to imagine the relief of the grapes once inside the cool of the large barrels. And now another of the innumerable wonders of nature has to take place: the sugar in the grapes will be transformed into alcohol, by the means of yeast: the new wine is in the process of being born.
Marco of Capitoni, Pienza, Val d’Orcia, 1 September
Another year, another harvest and once again it has been different from other years. What is the same is our passion for our work, with the goal of obtaining the maximum from what nature gives us. The vegetative cycle of our vines has seen alternating stages of marked accelerations and sudden stops. In particular, it started with a very hot spring (with consequent bringing forward of the cycle of growth). Then there was rain with low temperatures in the first part of the summer which slowed down the maturation. By contrast, from the second week of August onwards, there was heat, in fact a real heat wave. Now we are poised with our secateurs in hand and tomorrow we will pick the Merlot.
Paola of I Veroni, Pontassieve, Chianti Rufina, 29 August
Here we are, the harvest has started. After months of hard work collaborating with nature, we leave the final touch, the last word, to her.
After a spring which was a bit too rainy and made for exhausting work in the clay of our fields, the beginning of summer was almost perfect, disturbed only by sudden and deadly hail storms which fortunately slipped by us like an icy ghost. In the rest of June and July hot and cool days alternated which was ideal for vegetative development and for the growth of the clusters of grapes. Now we have arrived at the critical moment, with the hottest weeks of the summer which have suddenly accelerated the maturation of the fruit abetted by a suffocating hot wind (sirocco), which has led to exceptional temperatures of 42 degrees. The grapes have matured in an instant – we are recalling our workers from their holidays.
We started on 27 August, earlier than ever, in fact no one in our zone remembers having started this early. Even in the hottest year 2003 we began later.
We began with Merlot, the first grape variety to mature and to reach the correct sugar level to be picked and taken to the cool refuge of the winery. Sangiovese, our most representative variety, has withstood the heat very well; in fact, it’s very promising, favoured by exceptional weather up to the second week of August. In addition, due to our work of selection and reduction of the amount of grapes being carried by the plant, the reserves of water have remained available for longer and the plants have concentrated the sugary and aromatic substances. Nonetheless the Sangiovese still needs time to fulfil its potential, even if the hot wind of these days has notably accelerated its maturation. We are hoping for some refreshing rain.
In addition to the work in the fields, the extremely fine-tuned work in the winery is beginning – which I will update you on in my next report. Until the next instalment!
Francesca of Massa Vecchia, Massa Marittima, 23 August
The spring at Massa Marittima was dry and the fruit set took place slightly early. The small amount of rain was exceptionally violent with some areas being hit by hail – fortunately at Massa Vecchia we only caught the edge of it. The summer began with cool temperatures, but from mid-August the temperatures rose steeply. As a result the harvest will be about a week early: the Malvasia Nera will be harvested in a few days time. The Aleatico, which is normally picked at the end of August, will be left on the vine to dry and will be then made directly into wine (rather than being picked and then semi-dried). If the temperatures don’t drop, some grapes are at risk with problems of maturation, begining to dry out before reaching physiological maturity. We are hoping for rain!
Campo all Sughera, Bolgheri, 24 August
The harvest started today at Campo alla Sughera, the winery and estate of Knauf at Bolgheri. It begins with the white grapes Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc and will be followed by the Merlot. In the following weeks it will be turn of the Vermentino and the Cabernet Franc. It will finish with the other red grapes Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon at the end of September or the beginning of October.
What should we expect of the new vintages of our wines, Campo della Sughera, Arnione, Adèo, Acheneo and Arioso?
‘The remarkable and unexpected rise in temperature in the period after the Feast of the Assumption, August 15’ – comments the consultant enologist of Campo della Sughera, Dr. Bailo – ‘has accelerated the process of maturation of the grapes to the extent that the harvest will be about a week earlier than expected. As always, the first grapes to be picked will be Sauvignon and Chardonnay, which will be followed by Merlot. The marked differences between day time and night time temperatures during the period when the grapes mature have, however, created an excellent balance between sugars and acidity. It looks like being an excellent year with very high quality levels.’
Carla of Sassotondo, Pitigliano, 23 August
A hot spring with flowering being about 10 days in advance, with exceptional fruit set. The season has then been cool with little rain but abbundant: the plants have done really well and until now have not been under stress, and thus the harvest is likely to be early. We may begin at the weekend with the Sauvignon which normally I harvest around 10 September. Since about a week ago the temperatures have leapt in a dramatic fashion, reaching well above 35 degrees. Fortunately the nights continue cool and therefore, apart from some burning on grapes which have not fully ripened and are exposed to the sun (Greco), all is going extremely well.
Pictures taken on 23 August: Trebbiano, Ciliegiolo grapes, a Jurassic Park style fence against wild boar!
Paolo of Caparsa, Radda-in-Chianti, 22 August
In Radda-in-Chianti spring (April and May) started in a fantastic way, with lovely sunshine and sustained good temperatures which led to a particularly uniform set up of the vines, not withstanding the marked climatic differences due to exposition and altitude. Unfortunately a severe hailstorm hit a part of vineyards in Radda on the first of June. While there was much fear in fact the vines have managed to react as it were with pride, in a almost touching way, so that today we can say that the damage was limited. June was marked by beautiful sunny days, pleasant temperatures, relatively contained humidity, regular rain and noteable day/night temperature difference. The result was there were no problems, above all with downy mildew, with regard to the health of the vines.
July was a photocopy of June, with clear days and beautiful sunny radiation, cool periods alternating with heat, with rain from thunder storms and excellent temperature difference between night and day. However, again towards the second half of July there was a bad hail storm in a different zone to the earlier one, with limited damage given how far the season was advanced. Fortunately, this was again followed by a period of low humidity, allowing the vines to ‘dry’ the affected grapes quickly, and thus avoiding dangerous mildews from forming which could threaten quality.
Since the second half of August, the temperature has risen significantly and in recent days the thermometer has been constantly above 30 centigrade, well above the seasonal average. This favours the vineyards which face east, west and north, while those facing south are beginning to suffer from the heat. As a result, the maturation of the Sangiovese is proceeding in a generally excellent manner, even if there is a noticeable mild distress on the lower leaves in the most arid vineyards.
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