Maremma south
It’s very tempting to start this survey of key wineries of the Maremma in the north with Bolgheri - after all it re-ignited the quality wine business in the 1960s and led to the growth of a fine wine scene in the previously unknown Maremma. But I am going to start in the south and work up the coast as the Maremman wine scene is much more than just Bolgheri. In the south you are most aware of the ancient Etruscan heritage as you can still walk along the deeply cut Etruscan roads and admire the ancient city of Pitigliano. For more on the Etruscan period, see the time line. For an interactive map of the wine zones, click here.
What is described here as Maremma south is in fact a large and varied region. To make sense of the area, it is necessary to sub-divide it, even if there are features which cross the divisions.
Pitigliano
Pitigliano
This inland zone is famous for its spectacular hill towns and deep-cut Etruscan roads. The featured wineries here are Sassotondo and La Bussatina, both in organic production. The former has made some of the best and most characteristic wine in the whole of the Maremma, especially San Lorenzo, which regularly wins plaudits at national and international level. La Bussatina is a fascinating take on natural wines, accompanied by rare breeds. Its owner treasures the fact that each bottle from a batch can taste different, never mind each year. Read more.
Scansano and its modernists
As a wine zone Scansano now buzzes with life. It established itself first as a great source of warm climate Sangiovese wines, finally recognised by giving the coveted DOCG designation to Morellino di Scansano in 2007. In this name ‘Morellino’ is merely the local name for the grape variety Sangiovese – that’s to keep us foreigners (and indeed other Italians) on our toes! On the other hand, recent years has seen continued investment in the area with a view to growing international grape varieties. Syrah is the current favourite, along with other Mediterranean whites and reds, but there is experimentation going on with the rather less likely Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurztraminer!
For the purposes of this website we are going to divide the wineries between those using traditional grape varieties (Sangiovese and Alicante) and those trying new ones, Syrah, Cabernet and much more. The categorisation will not entirely work, but it is one way of looking at it.
So, for the Sangiovese loyalists - or should that be Morellists? – Podere 414, Mantellasi, Suberli and Acquviva), click here. The star winery Le Pupille is also described here, though it could have as easily come in the next section.
And for the modernists - Poggio Argentiera, Capua, Casavyc, Tenuta dell’Ammiraglia, and La Mozza – click here.
The coast
The Tuscan coast has become a place of pilgrimage for Italians and others in the summer. At times there is no let up from mile after mile of modern build, mostly sea-side flats, and then suddenly you will be struck by a beautiful coast or nature reserve. But there is also a distinct coastal sector with regard to growing vines, with the whites, Vermentino and especially Ansonica, doing well here. The wineries here include the large estate La Parrina, with its magnificent farm, elegant buildings and good range of wines and the tiny Il Cerchio, an organic vineyard. Read more.
After this southern section of the Maremma, we turn north towards inland Montecucco, neighbour of world famous Montalcino.
