Winefriend by David Way

Writing about the wines of Piemonte, Italy and France

Roussillon Languedoc

Sun, mountains, hills, sea – the wines of Roussillon and Southern Languedoc

Some areas are blessed with near-perfect conditions for growing the vine and producing its most valuable product, wine.  Roussillon is certainly one of these.  Administratively now coterminous with the Pyrénées-Orientales département, the region is bounded by the Mediterranean sea to the east, by the Spanish border to the south, by the Corbières to the north and by Ariège to the west.  It enjoys a sunny and dry climate, perfect for growing grapes.   The wines of Roussillon and Languedoc make full use if this perfect climate.  The key facts are:

  • a mainly Mediterranean climate
  • a low 500-600mm of rainfall a year (England has around 840mm), some of which is lost in thunderstorms; most rain falls in autumn and spring, leaving a dry summer period
  • winds which dry the countryside, producing very healthy conditions for vines, ideal for organic viticulture
  • a spectacular 2,530 hours of sun a year (England has less than 1,500) and an average temperature of 15°
  • apart from Alsace, the most complex geology in France, giving a range of soils, mostly limestone, clay and schist, but also quartz, granite and gneiss, creating lots of choice for a number of grape varieties


  • 2012 update: star Roussillon estates – Visits to top quality estates in June 2012 with members of Andover Wine Friends: Coume del Mas over the Mediterranean, Domaine Treloar inland, Mas Amiel outside Maury, Domaine Gardiès in the Agly Valley and, in SW Languedoc, the splendid Domaine Cabrol. Read more
  • Mysterious Bugarach – Bugarach is not really famous for wine, except perhaps for the amount of Robert’s vin rouge which is consumed in the village’s bar. But the village provides a dramatic, indeed mysterious base from which to explore the surrounding area.  Apart from the wine scene, there is the landscape, the wildlife, and the dual mysteries of the village gossip and, less credibly, the rumours of the end of the world in 2012, all focused on the mountain which soars above the village.   Read more
  • Southern sparklers – Limoux claims to predate Champagne in its discovery of how to create sparkling wine in bottles.  Be that as it may, this part of Southern Languedoc continues to make excellent sparkling wines in a range of local and international styles, at a very good price.  The featured winery is Domaine du Fourn (Robert), though with a welcome to France’s most southerly sparker at Domaine Grier in Roussillon.  Read more
  • Ancient and modern – Wine has a long and, at times, turbulent history in this part of France. As a result, there is both a big tradition of winemaking and a complete revitalisation in the last couple of decades.  The traditional sweet wines, vins doux naturels, will be featured below, but here we follow the history from bulk production to the top tables of the world.  Featured wineries include Maison Cazes and South African enterprise at Domaine GaydaRead more
  • Mainly red – While virtually every winery in this corner of Southern France will have a white wine and a rosé, it is the reds which shine here.  Choose the rosé if you are going to the beach, the whites perhaps for fish dishes, but then savour the reds, whether made with the traditional blends or now the omnipresent Syrah, imported from the Rhône.  Featured wineries include two cooperatives, the Les Vignerons de Lesquerde and Terroirs du Vertige, an ex-cooperative now called Préceptorie de Centernach and Domaine Grier.  But let’s be honest, every winery has red wine which could feature in this section.  Read more
  • In praise of Carignan – Strange things happen when you visit a wine area.  You discover new varieties or, in this case, the potential for quality of an old variety.  I am thinking of founding a club to celebrate old Carignan.  However, just calling it old vine Carignan won’t do, when the vines were planted in 1903.  The featured winery is Domaines Roc des Anges with an honourable mention for the Côtes d’Agly cooperative. Read more
  • Organic and biodynamic – With its near-perfect climate, this area is well placed to produce organic and biodynamic wines in decent quantities.  Indeed it was remarkable how many of the wineries we visited were either organic or in conversion.  The featured wineries here are Cazes, showing that you can be both a large concern and organic and even bio and, in Languedoc, Ch. Prieuré Borde-Rouge.  Read more
  • Vin doux naturel – natural sweeties – Patented back in 1299, Arnau de Vilanova apparently invented a style of wine of which Roussillon is the undisputed world leader – vin doux naturel. These wines from Rivesaltes, Maury and Banyuls have been stopped during fermentation by the addition of spirit. The wines retain fruit character and some sweetness, have great ageing potential and come in various styles.  Featured wineries included Cazes and Préceptorie de Centernach, along with the cooperatives – for example, Lesquerde – who keep alive this local treasure.  Read more

Credits: much of the factual data on these pages of the wines of Roussillon and Languedoc is drawn from Vignobles et vins du Roussillon, the booklet produced by the CIVR, Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Roussillon, with the production data from the 2009 vintage.  

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