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Recent vintages of Langoa Barton

There is something very satisfying about a proper case of wine.  At one level it’s only a wooden box as opposed to the usual cardboard container but it spells promise – hopefully great wines and a bit of protection against life’s knocks.  But above all it sends a signal – this is something special.  This

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Tasting

Campania in the glass in England

Tasting in situ is a dangerous business.   Wines can taste so much better when you are in the winery, the sun is shining or if the proprietor is particularly persuasive.  So, it is good to have the chance to re-taste wines in a more neutral setting, with a bit of distance and with the comparison

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dessert at The Harrow

How to do wine in restaurants

Wine in restaurants is a whole subject in itself.  The obvious gripes are mark-ups and uninspiring choice.  Some mark up is entirely reasonable – a restaurant rightly charges for the cost of holding stock, providing clean glasses, service and, sometimes, a knowledgeable and trained person.  On the other hand, there is nothing more off-putting than

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The world’s Chardonnay

A generation ago ordinary wine drinkers did not know the names of the grapes from which their wines were made.  Now a days, that’s probably the main thing that they do know.  Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Merlot and Cabernet all have their mass of followers, they have become brands in their own right. And of these,

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Wine, people, place: Nicholas Belfrage’s and Jon Wyand’s Tuscany

Nicholas Belfrage MW, The Finest Wines of Tuscany and Central Italy.  A regional and village guide to the best wines and their producers, Fine Wine Editions, Aurum Press, London, 2009  Nicholas Belfrage is a well-known figure on the English wine scene, a wine trader and author of the best general introduction to Italian wine.  An

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Burgundy at the home of cricket

English cricket and the wines of Burgundy – especially the somewhat elusive reds – do share some things in common.  After a summer of England beating Australia and taking a leading position after three winter Tests against South Africa, it was entirely in character that this Burgundy trade tasting should take place at the home

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Serraiola – picture essay

These few pictures are some highlights from a visit in August 2007 with the British Institute’s Tuscan summer school. It was a great day out!  Thank you to Margaret Leon, an American living in Umbria, for the photos.  More information: on Serraiola, see the full write up on the page on the Tuscan Maremma.  on

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Podere 414

Two Tuscan models

Taking a break from writing the pages for my website on the Tuscan Maremma, it’s time to feature two Maremman wines, available in the UK and models of good (drinking) practice.  The first is Podere 414’s Morellino di Scansano 2007 (Wine Society, £11.50).  A little translation is required here: Podere is simply a farm or

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Old style Chianti

Old style Chianti probably conjures up wicker baskets (in Italian – fiasco, which seems a little harsh) and thin, sharp wines.   In truth much of the cheap, commercial wines of previous decades was pretty awful.  Today’s wines are vastly better – quality wine making, vibrant if still sharp fruit, well judged use of oak-ageing in the

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Rediscovering Port

Port undoubtedly has an image problem.  Like sherry and madeira, its success in previous generations has left it pigeon-holed in the officers’ mess or the Oxbridge high table.  The vintage variety needs decades of cellaring – and who today has either decades or a cellar?  High in alcohol, the slightly improbable combination of sweet and

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