Winefriend by David Way

Writing about the wines of Piemonte, Italy and France

Weekend bottles

The weekend has that nice relaxed feel about it, a moment to search the cache of bottles in the kitchen or beyond for something different to try.  My recent trip to Berry Bros & Rudd’s Aladdin’s cave at Basingstoke produced one of these.  Chateaux de Lascaux 2006 from the Languedoc, with a galloping horse on the label.  (Pedantic aside: I can’t find the accented letters on Windows Live Writer yet).  But the wine is a fantastic example of super-ripe modern fruit, Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre (accent failure again).  How long will it last in the glass – always a good test.  Two hours later, not quite so elegant.

Weekend bottles Bottle number 2 was a product of the Wine Society clear out so as it moved into their new mega-warehouse in Stevenage.  A mystery case of White Burgundy, among the bottles, a plain Bourgogne Blanc 2004, the only modern touch was the word ‘Chardonnay’ on the label.  In the past, you were expected to know that sort of thing.  The weight of the bottle is a clue – heavy, not good for the environment but can speak of the winemaker’s ambition.  What emerged in the glass was a beautiful mid-yellow to gold, aromas of apples and melons and touch of spice from oak, excellent depth of fruit, slightly honeyed.  Alain Coche-Bizouard’s address is in Mersault and, while this fruit can come from anywhere in Burgundy, it is a sort of baby Meursault.  Life in the glass – two hours later, richer, spicier, complex, wonderful.  Weekend happiness.

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