How have the wines of the difficult 2023 vintage in Barbaresco turned out?  The wines will be released in January 2026. However, thanks to Vinexus, who import these wines into the UK, it was possible to get an early tasting of wines from some top producers. Many of the wines were cask samples, bottled and shipped for this occasion, thus the final wines may be subtly different. Alcohol levels will only be given when the wines are finalised.

The 2023 vintage

In the footballing cliché, 2023 was the classic game of two halves. The first half of the season was characterised by constant rain and drizzle. On the one hand, the precipitation was very welcome after the prolonged drought of 2022. On the other hand, growers had to spray incessantly against downy mildew that thrives in constant moist conditions. The second half of the season was very hot. Those who had hail nets were happy to use them to shade the vines; others had to manage the canopy to protect the fruit from sunburn. Overall, 2023 is likely to go down not as a great vintage but as a good one with moderate alcohol levels, as long as growers were prepared to do the extra but necessary work in the vineyard. Inevitably, this means that there will be significant variations between producers and even from one vineyard to another. ‘Drink from’ dates have been suggested where wines really require to be aged further in bottle. 

 

Castello di Neive

The wine making here is typically maceration on the skins for the period of fermentation (around 12 days), followed by ageing for 12–18 months in 35 hectolitre casks of French oak.

 

Barbaresco 2023

This is the multi-vineyard ‘classico’ wine of one of Barbaresco’s largest producers with a total of 65 hectares under vine. The classico is a blend of four subzones in Barbaresco with 30-year-old vines. Pale attractive ruby colour with the first hint of garnet, the nose leads with a stony sour red cherry note and a hint of spice and medium-high grippy tannin. 90

 

Barbaresco Gallina 2023

From the southwest-facing slope of Gallina MGA (subzone), this wine benefits from vines that are now more than 50 years old. Floral and elegant on the nose, highly drinkable now with its medium body and attractive fruit, with a pretty firm tannin layer for bottle ageing. 92

 

Barbaresco Santo Stefano 2023

This famous vineyard within the Albesani MGA (Neive) has a perfect and uniform southwest-facing slope. The plantings go as far back as 1963, with further batches in the early 1970s and 2001. (80 per cent of the nineteenth-century vines are in production today.) Classic pale ruby heading to garnet in colour, the wine leads with a beautiful rose petal and red cherry nose, and a noticeably greater weight on palate and more compact tannic base than the company’s other wines. Clearly, great potential for further ageing in the bottle. 93

 

Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano 2020

Made with a selection of the best Nebbiolo from the Santo Stefano vineyard, the winemaking here is the same as the other Castello di Neive wines but with extended ageing in the bottle for four years before release. The wine is a touch deeper in colour than the other wines, with intriguing bacon fat and earth notes overlaying the red fruit confit. The weighty palate leads to fine, bold, resolving tannins. A classic Riserva with many years’ potential for development. Drink from 2030 to be at its peak. 94

 

Pertinace

This co-operative winery is based in Treiso (Barbaresco) and receives the fruit from 20 growers with 110 hectares of vines. The wines are made with long skin maceration (40–60 days with the cap submerged) followed by ageing in large (40–105 hectolitre) Slavonian oak casks.

 

Barbaresco Marcarini 2023

Lifted and layered nose, tobacco over red fruit on the palate, the fruit weight is well balanced by the tannins. 92

 

Barbaresco Nervo 2023

Pretty floral and red plum nose with tobacco overtones, mild tannins, the elegant nose does not quite follow through on the palate. The final wine may well show better. 88

 

Paitin

Mostly certified organic vineyards. The winemaking here is around 40 days on the skins, followed by two years in casks (25 and 50 hectolitres).

Barbaresco Basarin 2023

Intriguing cherry compote and spice on the nose, silky texture already, ready to drink even if tannins can soften more with time. 93

 

Barbaresco Faset 2023

From a mix of vines planted in the 1930s and 1970s. Super pale robe, subtle and refined marasca cherry and cinnamon, lovely medium weight and restrained tannins. This Faset lives up to its reputation of being one of the more open wines on release. Drink from 2026. 91

 

Barbaresco Albesani 2023

Not certified organic. The wine is a touch muted if complex on the nose. It opens up with red cherry fruit, followed by a super smooth elegant palate. The tannins on the finale need time but this is a classic elegant Barbaresco. Drink from 2027. 92

 

Sorì Paitin, Barbaresco Serraboella 2023

Fruit from the oldest part of the Serraboella MGA, the current vines dating from 1969, 1974 and 1982. Very pale in the glass, intense and elegant cranberry and rhubarb entry followed by a juicy, fruity palate and fine tannins, a very accessible Barbaresco. 92

 

Vecchie Vigne, Sorì Paitin, Barbaresco Riserva Serraboella, 2021

This bottling is made from the very oldest vines, dating back to 1953. The wine spends yet longer time on the skins, up to 50 days, and two years in oak. Fairly full body with intense tobacco and dark plum fruit, robust structure with brisk acidity and fine, powdery tannins. 94

 

Cantina Rizzi

The winemaking here is medium-long macerations on the skins (20–30 days) and ageing for 12–15 months in large casks (50 hectolitres). The winery has the same name as the MGA Rizzi, hence the first wine is Cantina Rizzi, Barbaresco Rizzi.

 

Barbaresco Rizzi 2023

Fruit from 10 hectares in the Rizzi MGA, planted between 1974 and 2004. Perfumed cooked red fruit. The wine is so approachable now but has a touch of firmness on the finish and grainy tannins, suggesting it can age well. 90

 

Barbaresco Nervo 2023

Smoky, thyme-infused red cherry and rhubarb fruit, complex, a touch above medium body, mild tannic finish. This lives up to Nervo’s reputation for elegant wines. 92

 

Barbaresco Pajoré 2023

Vineyards planted in the early 1960s and 2008. Muted nose with red plum fruit and earthy undertones and a suave, layered mid-palate.  The wine finishes with firm mildly grainy tannins, 92

 

Barbaresco Rizzi Reserva, Vigna Boito, 2021

This wine is made from the best grapes grown in the upper part of the Rizzi vineyard, planted between 1972–1995. It spends nearly two years in cask, eight months in concrete and then sixteen months in the bottle. Powerful compact fruit on the nose with black tea and bay leaf, mouth-filling, resilient chalky tannins. Drink from 2030. 94