Winefriend by David Way

Writing about the wines of Piemonte, Italy and France

Italian wine

Sordo cellar

Diary 58: Sordo Barolo vertical

It was a pleasure to start my week of visits and vintage tastings with Paola Sordo of the historic Sordo winery. The bonus was tasting with its current winemaking consultant, Gian Luca Colombo. He was a partially objective participant as most of the wines we tasted were made before he began to work with the

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Gaja Barbaresco vertical

Diary 55: Gaja Barbaresco vertical

The wines of Gaja in Barbaresco have been characterized by five generations of excellence and innovation, with the classic Barbaresco as its largest offering. Following a vertical tasting with Giovanni Gaja, the 2021 vintage was noted for its aromatic intensity and berried fruit, while the 2020 may eventually outshine due to moderate later-season temperatures. Comparison of older vintages revealed consistent quality, with standout years like 2016, 2010, and 2004 demonstrating the label’s long-term maturation potential.

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Barolo Riserva, Borgogno

Diary 53: vintage reflections

Following the publication of The Wines of Piemonte, the International Wine and Food Society has asked me to contribute to its vintage and drinkability chart for Piemonte. These are my vintage reflections on beginning this task. I am following in the illustrious footsteps of Nick Belfrage MW, pioneer writer on Italian wine, and Michael Garner,

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Mapping Barbera denominations

Diary 52: Mapping Barbera

DOC/DOCGs in Piemonte Piemonte is proud to have no fewer than 60 wine denominations and no IGT wine. But this number of DOCs/DOCGs brings problems as well. Mapping Barbera denominations in Monferrato shows these very clearly. In the 1970s, there was a rush to create the newly available accreditation as a DOC. Barolo and Barbaresco

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Celebration full line up

Diary 52: a celebration tasting

And finally, it’s been a busy time! In September, my 400-page book, The Wines of Piemonte, was published … And here is what I tasted, no drank, with my local tasting group to celebrate the happy day. The tasting reflects the book: Barolo and Barbaresco of course, but so much more! Great grape varieties, a

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Pinot Grigio L'Altro

Piera 1899

It was great to be able to taste the wines of a larger Friulian company, based in Friuli Grave. Normally all the spotlight is on Collio and Friuli Collio Orientali, rather than on the flatter plain normally associated with volume production and Glera for Prosecco. The winery Piera 1899 produces a number of lines but

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