Italian wine

Gaja Barbaresco vertical

Diary 55: Gaja Barbaresco vertical

The wines of Gaja in Barbaresco have been characterized by five generations of excellence and innovation, with the classic Barbaresco as its largest offering. Following a vertical tasting with Giovanni Gaja, the 2021 vintage was noted for its aromatic intensity and berried fruit, while the 2020 may eventually outshine due to moderate later-season temperatures. Comparison of older vintages revealed consistent quality, with standout years like 2016, 2010, and 2004 demonstrating the label’s long-term maturation potential.

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Barolo Riserva, Borgogno

Diary 53: vintage reflections

Following the publication of The Wines of Piemonte, the International Wine and Food Society has asked me to contribute to its vintage and drinkability chart for Piemonte. These are my vintage reflections on beginning this task. I am following in the illustrious footsteps of Nick Belfrage MW, pioneer writer on Italian wine, and Michael Garner,

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Mapping Barbera denominations

Diary 52: Mapping Barbera

DOC/DOCGs in Piemonte Piemonte is proud to have no fewer than 60 wine denominations and no IGT wine. But this number of DOCs/DOCGs brings problems as well. Mapping Barbera denominations in Monferrato shows these very clearly. In the 1970s, there was a rush to create the newly available accreditation as a DOC. Barolo and Barbaresco

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Celebration full line up

Diary 52: a celebration tasting

And finally, it’s been a busy time! In September, my 400-page book, The Wines of Piemonte, was published … And here is what I tasted, no drank, with my local tasting group to celebrate the happy day. The tasting reflects the book: Barolo and Barbaresco of course, but so much more! Great grape varieties, a

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Pinot Grigio L'Altro

Piera 1899

It was great to be able to taste the wines of a larger Friulian company, based in Friuli Grave. Normally all the spotlight is on Collio and Friuli Collio Orientali, rather than on the flatter plain normally associated with volume production and Glera for Prosecco. The winery Piera 1899 produces a number of lines but

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Diary 51: publication day!

I am delighted to say that publication day for my book has arrived, four years after my book proposal was accepted. It is now available for sale directly from the publisher. This is the culmination of a huge amount of intense work, especially over the last four years. I am hugely grateful to all the producers and

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Main entrance, Venaria Reale

Diary 50: an important milestone

Since my last update in January, I have made important progress on The Wines of Piemonte. The big news is that on 31 May, on time, I submitted my full text to the Classic Wine Library. This is genuinely an important milestone! While it has been on the publisher’s and Amazon’s websites for some time to pre-order, that

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Entrance to Vinitaly

Diary 49: Piemonte in Verona

Vinitaly 2023 The biggest event in Italian wine business is the national wine fair, Vinitaly, held in Verona every year in spring. It is massive. 93,000 visitors, of which more than a quarter were foreign buyers, attended this year. The organisation has improved over the years, especially since the pandemic, with a better shuttle bus

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