Casa Sola – Chianti Classico’s western edge
Just occasionally one visits a winery when the setting is perfect, the host very competent and the wines are technically high quality but there is a lack of connection, something just doesn’t click. This happened on a very hot day – like every other hot day in summer 2012 in central Italy – visiting the well regarded Fattoria Casa Sola.
The estate has a superb setting, next door to the famous Isole e Olena, on the very western edge of Chianti Classico. As you can see from the pictures, it has suitably fast-draining and infertile soils and a well-equipped winery with stainless steel vats for fermentation and holding young wines, plus a fine range of both barriques and larger botti, the classic more neutral but porous containers for traditional styles of wine. It also has a lovely collection of old oil jars – which cannot be used now commercially for health and safety reasons: there’s progress for you!
The style of the estate’s wine is what I would call modestly modern. They produce both Chianti at various quality levels and a Super Tuscan, with the Chianti being mostly Tuscan grape varieties but softened and enriched a touch by small amounts of Cabernet and Merlot. It is a fair compromise – but perhaps it was the real Tuscan austerity I missed?Pergliamici, Toscana IGT, 2010 – the name means ‘for friends’ and this wine lives up to this name for its quaffable refreshment. Interestingly it is an old-style Tuscan blend with white grapes as part of the mix: Sangiovese (85%), Canaiolo (9%), and then the two traditional whites, Trebbiano Toscano (3%), Malvasia (3%). Pale ruby, pleasant cherry palate, light fine tannins, pleasant light red wine.
Chianti Classico 2009 – here the blend is 90% Sangiovese with the rest being Merlot/ Cabernet (together 6%) and Canaiolo: good complexity on the nose, less interest on the palate than the nose promised, good acidic and tannic finish, some roundedness from the Cabernet.
Chianti Classico riserva 2007 – 90% Sangiovese, with here the remnant being just Cabernet and Merlot: slightly denser colour, clove, leather, balsam on the nose (ie more intense oak effects) and mainly black fruit; good weight in the mouth, fair length.
Montarsiccio IGT Toscana 2004 – a Super Tuscan made from Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot (30%) with a leavening of Sangiovese (10%), aged for two years in French barriques. Aromatic black fruit nose, very soft palate but good intensity and length.
and finally, back to Tuscan history: Vin Santo 2003, Malvasia (60%) and Trebbiano (40%), picked in optimum conditions, dried out until around Christmas time and then fermented and aged for a minimum of five years in caratelli, small casks. A tinge of orange in both colour and aroma; honeyed nose; oaky notes on the palate, fresh impact on the palate, then walnut and almond; good acidity; very attractive.
With thanks to all at Casa Sola – I am sure it will click the next time!
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